Osage Blackberry

Before planting

• Keep the roots cool and slightly moist until you are ready to plant.

• Right before planting, soak the bare roots in a bucket of clean water for 30–60 minutes so they rehydrate.

Choose the location

• Pick a spot with full sun, at least 6–8 hours of direct light each day.

• Soil should be well drained and not stay soggy after rain.

• A slightly acidic to neutral soil (around pH 6.0–6.5) is ideal if you know your soil test.

Prepare the planting hole

• Remove grass and weeds from the planting area.

• Dig a hole about 12–15 inches wide and 8–10 inches deep.

• Loosen the soil in the bottom and sides of the hole.

• Mix some compost into the backfill soil to improve structure, but do not plant directly into pure compost.

Set the plant depth

• Make a small mound of soil in the center of the hole.

• Spread the roots evenly over the mound so they fan out and angle slightly downward.

• Position the plant so the crown, where the roots meet the stem, sits at or just below the final soil level.

Backfill and firm the soil

• Backfill the hole with the loosened soil, working it gently in around the roots.

• Firm the soil lightly with your hands as you go to remove air pockets, but do not stomp it hard or compact it heavily.

Water in

• Water thoroughly right after planting until the soil is evenly moist around the root zone.

• If the soil settles and leaves the crown too high or roots exposed, add a bit more soil to cover them.

Mulch

• Apply 2–3 inches of mulch such as wood chips, pine bark, or straw in a circle around the plant, about 18–24 inches wide.

• Keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the cane to prevent stem rot.

Spacing

• If you are planting a row of Osage blackberries, space plants about 3–4 feet apart in the row.

• Leave 8–10 feet between rows so you have room to walk, mow, and prune.

First season care

• Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged while the plant is getting established.

• Keep weeds and grass cleared from around the plant so they do not compete with the new roots.

• Once new canes grow, you can start planning support, such as posts and wire, to tie canes as they get taller.